Mountains and riverfront views create an atmosphere of being in the country in this northern Busan neighbourhood, far from the frenzy of the city centre.

Emerging from Hwamyeong subway station after a short trip from the city center, you may find it hard to believe how close you are to Busan. Girded by mountains and the slow-moving Nakdong River, with a mostly residential population, Hwamyeong is the perfect place to relax and recover from a trip to downtown. Make this a home base from which to explore the high-rises to the south. Go from mountain to river and back again in a day and fall asleep to the sound of crickets outside your window.

Start the day with a run, skate or walk along the paths of the Waterfront Park, which overlooks Busan’s main waterway. Enjoy the wetland scenery or join a game of badminton or soccer taking place on the park’s many courts.

Get a sense of Hwamyeong’s connection with the water at the Busan Fishing Village Folk Museum, a fascinating lens onto the fishing heritage of Busan, including the opportunity to look at real catches and old technology still being used today.

Head into the nearby mountains, toward the forests. About 25 minutes’ drive northeast is the Hwamyeong Arboretum, a huge complex with hundreds of walking trails and a multilevel greenhouse showcasing both native Korean and foreign plants.

Hwamyeong, in northern Busan, is a 30-minute subway ride from most parts of downtown Busan. Get here in 45 minutes from Busan station. The airport is a 45-minute train ride away. Bus networks provide connections within Hwamyeong. Much of the construction in Hwamyeong is new and includes several international hotel chains. A recent cleanup project has revitalized the river, but swimming here is still not advisable.

In the summer, end the day at Hwamyeong Ecological Park Swimming Pool, where DJ concerts and food trucks keep the party going well into the evening.