Seville eats late, drinks with intention, and keeps its best bars on streets that most visitors never find.

This tour starts at the Patio de Banderas, steps from the cathedral, where part of an original 11th century Moorish door is still on display in a small museum. From there, four neighborhoods in three hours. The Jewish Quarter comes first, with Las Teresas, a bar that has been serving ham and potato salad under a ceiling of old photographs since before anyone can remember. At Inés Rosales, the olive oil cake that the founder began making in 1910 and now exports to forty countries, eaten with a glass of orange wine. Past the cathedral and into El Salvador, where the small bodeguita beside the church fills up with locals at every hour. Pork cheeks and a shrimp omelette, with wine, in the square that has been the center of Sevillian daily life for centuries.

Into Alfalfa for Bodega La Aurora: wooden casks, artifacts on the walls, flaming sausage and spinach with chickpeas, washed down with a tinto de verano. Heladería Bolas closes the afternoon with artisan ice cream in one of the old city's quietest squares.

Come and eat your way through the Seville that most visitors walk straight past!